Welcome to
Peterborough Model Car race school

We race most radio controlled electric cars indoors on carpet. All Beginners and prospective members are welcome to watch and ask advice, 1st trial meeting is also free.
Drivers are separated by ability, no need to be nervous -we all started in the bottom heat sometime.
There will be 3 Races usually 5 min and 2 or 3 finals usually 7 min So thats usually 5-6 runs for everyone, plus any practice.
Most people bring charged batteries ( previous day) and use a fast charger to top up Batteries on the day, don't recharge when hot.
TIP Lipos do not like to be run flat, keep limit to 3 volts per cell (6v for 2 cell)
Race entry (see home page for cost), which pays for the hire of the hall. Booking in at race control -by the computer.

Frequency's
We no longer use a pegboard because the vast majority now use 2.4ghz now (Check frequencies with people using long ariels on Transmitters BEFORE YOU SWITCH ON), to prevent two cars on the same frequency and causing any interference.
No 35mhz (Aircraft) ONLY 27 and 40mhz please.
Try to have a spare set of crystals (gives you more chance of racing).
Safety
Model Motor Racing can be dangerous
Please take sensible precautions particularly with small children.
Pets are not allowed.
Marshalling
We marshal the race after our own.
Look first before stepping on track and look again going back to avoid other cars and stay alert
Gear Ratios
Divide the spur gear by the pinion then multiply by the final drive ratio (in instruction book) = Overall Gear Ratio (start about 8.5 -1)
TIP Start on the safe side with a small pinion. Ask advice from locals -who don't have a burnt out motor!
Small /twisty tracks and Hi speed (top end motors) and even better batteries need smaller pinions than normal
TIP Stay cool use a heat sink /fan Don't keep racing with a hot motor.
Signs of over gearing are very hot motors (and the brushes need replacing if turned blue on brushed), and eventually -realistic but expensive smoke as the lacquer & solder melt (I should know)

TIP Don't open the throttle if you crash into something immoveable -smoke WILL appear and may damage the speed control as well. -very expensive smoke!!!
 
 
 
race school tips
  • Think carefully before you spend
    Its no good finding nowhere or anyone to race similar cars with, then finding out no spares are available!
  • Ask advice at the club race meetings
    We have more experience from making the mistakes and can save you much time, effort and money.What to get and where to get it. Far better than an empty car park on your own.
  • Equipment
    Radio, 2.4 is best, FM is better than AM and 40mhz is better than 27mhz.
    See Tech chart for guidance (2005)
  • Start with a stock motor.
    Slow is the best way to learn, more time to think, easier to set-up, drive, less wear and mistakes (read damage!)
  • Budget racing
    Look for the price drop on last years car when the latest one appears in the new season and avoid the carbon version -its brittle and costs
Basic car Set-up guide

Aim for slight understeer
-safe easy fewer mistakes and much quicker than oversteer
Tyres and inserts
are one of the most important starting points - check condition and well glued, -after every race.
With Control tyres, its down to set-up.
TIP First check for broken /loose or bent parts (wishbone pins) and air in shocks etc.
TIP
Get as much rear grip as possible then decide how much grip (steering) you need on the front
TIP Slippery /bumpy tracks need softer suspension
TIP Grippy /smooth /fast or tight tracks need Harder suspension, lower ground clearance and anti-roll bars to reduce grip roll
SPRINGS

Harder Feels more responsive -(less grip)
Softer Feels sluggish -(more grip in corners)
Harder Front =Less steering in & out
Softer Front =
More steering esp middle and exit too much will cause oversteer or spin
Harder Rear =
More steering esp middle and exit too much will cause oversteer or spin (less rear traction)
Softer Rear =
More rear traction Less steering (best for bumpy corners under power)
DAMPING (Shock Absorbers)
Thicker Oil =
Smoother /more stable (best for smooth grippy tracks)
Thinner Oil =
Car reacts quicker to bumps
Thicker Oil Front Thinner Oil Rear =
Smoother steering / more stable (Easier to drive -high speed)
Thinner Oil Front Thicker Oil Rear =
More & Quicker steering (slow corners)
TOW-IN Front
, (Start at 0 degrees) More =More stability
TOW-IN Rear, (Start at -3 degrees)(In at front) More =More Stability in chicane but less speed
CASTER Front, More =More Stability on straight, less aggressive turn in
CAMBER (Start at -1 to -2 degrees) (Negative -In at top) Stiff set-up needs less camber (check tyre wear) More negative gives more grip until breakaway becomes less predictable.
TIP Basically overall try NOT to get the front and rear more than 2 settings apart
TIP Change one thing at a time and keep notes if its worse -go back -try something else
TIP No two drivers likes the same set-up
The twins are a good example -same cars different driving styles and set-up but they are as quick as each other!!!-but maybe not on the same parts of the track.
This is what makes Motor sport so interesting